Once a multicultural, cosmopolitan city under British, Yangon slowly declined during Myanmar’s long self-imposed absence from the international sphere. The city’s downtown area contains wondrous reminders of the colonial era but is modernising fast. New bars, restaurants and fascinating galleries are thriving in the post-military rule era. What slight charm Yangon has lost in the country’s recent and sharp progress is more than made up for in the explosion of places to eat and drink.